• neebpanorama_fish_eye
    Apprentice 〚✅〛

    Member since: 10/04/2022
    2 years

    I've noticed that the anti-magnetic ring inside some 811AD Yacht Clubs is very
    wide and partially overlaps the edge of the rotor, while in others it's much
    narrower, not really extending over the back of the movement itself. I'm
    guessing that the design was changed at some point, and looking at serial
    numbers perhaps the wider ring was in the earlier models?

    Was the ring made narrower to allow easier servicing of the watch, and/or was
    it found to work just as well if it was narrower? I don't really understand
    how it works anyway if it doesn't entirely cover the movement.

  • Catherinehelp_outline
    Master 〚✅〛

    Member since: 13/09/2002
    2 years

    The gaurd is to stop the rotor bouncing about , something of an Achilles heel
    in a model purposefully marketed for more action. Rubber inplants soak up the
    sideways movement.

  • neebpanorama_fish_eye
    Apprentice 〚✅〛

    Member since: 10/04/2022
    2 years

    Thanks! Makes sense.

    I've now acquired my YC and it's lovely... Mine has five little bits of rubber
    evenly spaced around the guard ring, between that and the outside of the case.
    Not sure if the watch would have originally come with those or with some other
    type of rubber ring or bumper system.

    If I wanted to remove the movement from the case, would it lift out from the
    guard ring without removing the ring and bumpers themselves (after undoing the
    securing screws obviously), or does the ring and movement come out as one
    piece? Mine is the type with the narrower guard ring.

  • neebpanorama_fish_eye
    Apprentice 〚✅〛

    Member since: 10/04/2022
    2 years

    Here's the watch in all its magnificence.. Wears very large for a 36mm, about
    as large as I'd wear on my skinny 6" wrist!

  • Catherinehelp_outline
    Master 〚✅〛

    Member since: 13/09/2002
    2 years

    Your rubber pieces are factory, i'd think the movement being extracted would
    be determinable by the dial size and so a watchmaler would start any
    dismantling from the periphery,

    Nice lot, first watch i ever i bought on my own (£175)

  • Mark Flemingerpanorama_fish_eye
    Master 〚✅〛

    Member since: 07/07/2013
    2 years

    That's a beauty......Congratulations :o)

  • neebpanorama_fish_eye
    Apprentice 〚✅〛

    Member since: 10/04/2022
    2 years

    Your rubber pieces are factory, i'd think the movement being extracted would
    be determinable by the dial size and so a watchmaler would start any
    dismantling from the periphery,

    Nice lot, first watch i ever i bought on my own (£175)

    Wow, £175 - when was that? I paid about 10x that for mine!

    I'm a bit of a fettler and I managed to remove and replace the movement in the
    case (I wanted to properly clean the screw-thread area where the caseback
    attaches). The movement is apparently attached to the outer ring by a couple
    of screw plates that were easy to remove, but although that allowed the
    movement to rotate with respect to the ring it didn't obviously make it easy
    to detach, so I removed the movement and the ring as one piece.

    Those little rubber bumpers need to be slid around the periphery until they
    are aligned with the obvious notch in the ring that's about the same length as
    they are. At that point they can be carefully extracted - they are angled in
    such a way that they fit into the groove around the outside of the ring and
    underneath the rim of the case itself. Fortunately mine were lubricated and
    could be reasonable easily moved, but the rubber is quite old, hard and
    fragile so I would imagine that in some cases it might be difficult to get
    them out without them disintegrating.

    I'm assuming that getting suitable replacements would be very difficult
    without having the watch serviced by IWC themsleves at considerable expense,
    but if anyone knows otherwise I'd be glad to know. My bumpers are just about
    hanging on but it would be nice to fit some fresh ones! It looks like a thick
    gasket of the right size with a square cross-section could be used to make
    more of these, but I don't know how easy it would be to find such a thing..
    Looking at online resources it seems that many watchmakers simply replace the
    bumpers with a continuous gasket that probably doesn't secure the movement in
    quite the intented way.

  • Catherinehelp_outline
    Master 〚✅〛

    Member since: 13/09/2002
    2 years

    '90-clock shop in derbyshire.

    Think your 10x's is safe...they're still relatively cheap given that any 160x
    realises at least double that.

    I'm not sure of the state of play with the search engine on this forum but
    there was a japanese ( i think) poster who was enamoured with the YC and
    posted a factory diagram ( sort of schematic) highlighting the rubber shocks
    in situ. Unfortunately i cannot recall his moniker...with a bit of luck
    someone might.

  • Greg Steerpanorama_fish_eye
    Master 〚✅〛

    Member since: 22/03/2001
    2 years

    From the 1972 catalogue.

    Cheers from the cellar

  • Catherinehelp_outline
    Master 〚✅〛

    Member since: 13/09/2002
    2 years

    Thank you greg, much appreciated

  • neebpanorama_fish_eye
    Apprentice 〚✅〛

    Member since: 10/04/2022
    2 years

    Wow, brilliant! So good to have official documentation showing that those five
    "pillows" are how the watch was setup originally.