Found a vintage bracelet! Now what?

A few weeks ago I asked whether a vintage IWC beads of rice bracelet would fit my Cal 89? It wasn't clear that it would fit but I thought I would give it a shot. Well, thanks to MF, I was able to find one and it arrived today. Thanks again MF!

The good news is that the bracelet is a beauty and I think very well suited for the watch. The bad news is that the bracelet doesn’t quite fit. I understand that vintage IWC bracelets were not made for particular models and that different end pieces were required for different watches. Unfortunately the two end pieces that came with the bracelet do not fit… it turns out my Cal. 89 measures 17mm at the lugs, not 18mm.

I’m not giving up on the idea of a bracelet for my Cal. 89 quite yet though. I am leaning towards trying to attach the bracelet w/o using IWC end links. In that case, there would be a gap between bracelet and case…. similar to the Longines pictured in the link below. Do you all think that looks good, bad?

Also, problem is that I still need a way to attach the bracelet with a plain spring bar. Do you guys know if that is a part that can be purchased? If not, I need to have one made and I’m wondering whether it’s more trouble than it’s worth.

Thanks!

Longines - what it might look like if I pull this off…

Ask IWC via your AD or direct

Re bar fitting check with IWC through your AD or direct.
Tear drop lugs would be a problem to blend in between barcelet and case however a solid piece would destroy the lines of the case & lugs and make the watch heavy to look at. Enquire if IWC have the necessary bar to fit between lugs of ?mm width. Believe the bracelet came in two forms (but this is from a distant memory and comes with no degree of certainty) the two forms being polished and matt. Best of luck.
PS Stainless steel comes in various grades and the composition of the grades will affect the hardness the finish and the colour or should I say tint of colour. If IWC can sort you out fine but I think others will cost quite a bit and you may not be pleased with the end result. Also would you require beads/grains to be removed in which case you have material which can be worked for outside sources doing the job.

I'd find a skilled local watchmaker...

...many of them have jewelry skills, and it might be possible to file down the sides of the bracelet near the ends .5 mm on each side --that's not much.

In terms of springbars, those are easily findable and any watchmaker who dioesn't just change batteries should have a large assortment, including ones that fit.

On the ends, that's almost impossible to find, but some watchmakers can work something out, sometimes taking parts from other pieces or filing the ends until they're even. Some do jewelry work or use lathes, but you need to talk to someone with expertise who can help.

Good luck,
Michael