• Graduate
    11 Nov 2011, 8:46 a.m.

    I'm not sure if anyone is willing and/or able to assist with a technical question on a 3227 but I'll give it a shot.

    Am I correct in assuming the bezel is friction fit and the holes are just for decoration? If yes, had anyone removed this bezel before and if so how easily did it come off? I'm thinking I'll need to make a die and just punch it out from the inside?

    Many thanks if you have done this before ad can advise.

    DM

  • Master
    11 Nov 2011, 10:20 a.m.

    Hi Darryl,

    I've never had the chance to remove the bezel from a ref. 3227 but I think it's screwed down and its run stops to set the hole perfectly at 12 thanks to the particular configuration of the screwing parts that end with a click.

    This is an improvement developed for this reference, ref. 1832, for instance, doesn't have.

    Anyway, I think you might need the specific key to unscrew this bezel.

    You probably know the bezel was conceived by Hano Burtscher e Gerald Genta as for both, functional and aesthetical reasons, this concept remains intact in the later references, ref. 3227 included.

  • Graduate
    11 Nov 2011, 11:11 p.m.

    Thank you for your reply Roberto. I am now a little confused. I am sure I read elsewhere on this forum that the bezel holes were for decoration only on the 3227. I certainly don't want to push it off if it is threaded but could easily make a key to fit if it is. Can anyone confirm how this is fitted?

    Regards,

    Darryl.

  • Connoisseur
    12 Nov 2011, 1:01 a.m.

    It's a bayonet type clasp -- not a screwed fit like the Ref. 1832 Jumbo Ingenieur, but you need a tool to twist the bezel sufficiently to dislodge from the clasp.

  • Graduate
    12 Nov 2011, 1:01 a.m.

    Try contacting one of the service centers. I suggest emailing Superior Watch Service in the U.S., an authorized service center, who may be able to answer your question specifically.

  • Master
    12 Nov 2011, 12:19 p.m.

    Darryl,

    sorry for having tried to take you off road.

    Sometimes english, not being my mother language, plays tricks on me.

    I beg you pardon.

  • Master
    12 Nov 2011, 12:46 p.m.

    I'm not quite sure what you mean: are you planning to remove the bezel? Why? Is there some repair issue you will try to resolve by yourself? Or just curiosity? I am just curious: me not being a daredevil I would never even contemplate doing so, but then, people are not alike.

    Kind regards,
    Paul

  • Master
    12 Nov 2011, 12:53 p.m.

    When putting it back, ensure that one of the holes will be aligned with the 12 position, otherwise the holes will be asymmetrical, taking the longitudinal (6/12) axis as reference, as in the case of the Ref 1832.

  • Graduate
    13 Nov 2011, 1:33 a.m.

    Yes, I am (was, as it is all done now) planning to remove the bezel. The watch needs a little polishing (just some micro nicks) and to get it perfect the bezel really needs to be off of the case with crystal removed given the uppermost flat edge next to the crystal.

  • Graduate
    15 Nov 2011, 8:13 a.m.

    For anyone reading this thread in the future all you need to know is the crystal needs to come out first then the bezel twists off easily.

  • Master
    15 Nov 2011, 5:10 p.m.

    All sounded rather desperate and rather frightening as to what was about to happen. Since its a polishing job and polishing means rubbing down why not let the experts do it whether at local service centre or back for a spa session.

  • Master
    18 Nov 2011, 3:23 p.m.

    Hi DJ_M,

    Here's a semi-official answer to your question.

    By coincidence we, at Superior, are currently repairing a model 3227 and I can confirm the following:

    First, the top bezel turns off but does not have conventional threads as for example on the vintage Ingenieur 3508. The decorative dimples always line up with one hole perfectly at 12 o'clock.

    To polish and recondition the entire case requires factory tools and quite a bit of time and work. The top bezel, as well as the crystal and case tube, must be removed in order to gain access to all areas of the case. Once the multi-process of refinishing is done the case tube must be epoxied back to the case and the crystal and top bezel reinserted properly.

    Since this model is not an inexpensive timepiece I would therefore not suggest anyone, lacking the special tools, skills, and experience, trying the above work on their own.

    Hope this bit of info is helpful.

    Regards,
    Jack Freedman