Is IWC a Haute Horlogerie Manufacture ?

Hi !

Diversification is always good therefore besides my trusted IWCs, for 2009 I have added a new watch to my little collection with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Polaris 1968. I think that for a reasonable price, it is a rather interesting limited edition "singing" diver's watch with a "JLC Manufacture" everything including a high tech winder ceramic ball bearing.

Being naturally curious, I have registered and read a few posts from the JLC Club. One of the threads discusses about the definition of what is a Haute Horlogerie Manufacture and what is not.

The conclusion is that a Manufacture is where everything is made under the one same roof i.e. R&D, conception, design, prototyping, production and testing. This applies to both movements, cases, their decorations, etc...

Having read this I was wondering if IWC could be considered as a H.H. Manufacture or not and if not, if IWC had the intention to gain such status in the near future ?

Thanks & Best Regards,
Patrick

Yes, but...

IWC, for a majority of its models, does everything at its Schaffhausen factory, including "R&D, conception, design, prototyping, production and testing" and for "movements, cases, their decorations, etc..." This applies to all IWC models that have in-house movements. They are, by the standards you've espoused, Haute Horologerie products. IWC also is a member of la Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie.

But --frankly-- you've succumbed to an arbitrary definition, advanced for marketing purposes by one and only one company, in its self-promoting claim of what it considers a Haute Horlogerie Manufacture. By that definition, Vacheron would not qualify for some of its models. By that definition, Seiko and probably Citizen would qualify. I believe that a majority of knowledgeable watch people would include Vacheron and exclude the Japanese companies.

Also, to be technical, JLC doesn't meet its own definition. It doesn't produce the critical movement parts, including the balance wheel, the hairspring and mainspring. It doesn't produce the jewels used. It doesn't produce the shock protection system it uses. It doesn't produce the crystals used in its cases, nor its straps.

This arbitary definitional stuff is marketing fluff. JLC makes good watches and has great internal capabilities, but so do many companies. Giving labels doesn't promote any real understanding, and definitions have limits.

Regards,
Michael
P.S. 50 watchmaking companies qualifiy as "haute horologerie" by the better standards of the industry group (la Fondation de la Haute Horologie) and 29 support the foundation. You can get all the names via the link below --and it's not so exclusive.

click here for more about la Fondation de la Haute Horologie

Yes, but...

Michael,

Thanks for your detailed response, this is very much appreciated. In fact I was intrigued by this rather good marketing discussion by JAW on the JLC Club and was curious to know IWC' stance regarding this matter.

In fact I would be very surprised if today any single watch company was making 100% of their watches components, etc... without relying on some parts or services from external entities.

I believe that IWC is fairly rapidly transforming itself into regaining this "manufacture" status as defined earlier _ I concede that it may be flawed _ , specifically with the production of in-house movements _ the heart of any watch _ but I am wondering if the intention is to extend this strategy to all models or will some models remain with ETA based movements ?

Thanks & Best Regards,
Patrick

Price

As I understand it, in-house movements are more expensive than movements that are bought from ETA. So, most of the more expensive watches of IWC have in-house movements, and the less expensive watches have ETA movements. These ETA movements are built according to high standard specifications of IWC, and so are very high class too. As IWC wants to offer a whole range of watches, starting around USD 3'000, and ending around USD 300'000, both types of movements will be offered, whereby there will be no reason at all to complain about the quality of whatever watch in whatever respect.

Kind regards,
Paul, wearing steel VC Portuguese, with in-house movement, and quite a treat on the wrist

Well put Paul!

The IWC line of watches is great and offers something for a great number of watch fans. With only watches equipped with in-house movements, a large number of fans will be forced to loot at other brands.

My first IWC has a ETA movement but I don't consider it any less than my other watches and it runs like a charm!

Kind regards,

Clemens

Haute Horlogerie.

Jean-Philippe,

Let's not confuse the moniker 'Haute Horlogerie' with the notion of whether a manufacture sources parts from 'outside sources'. Those two factors are not necessarily related. Despite that, IWC does have a long tradition, and contemporary expertise with some of the finest examples of 'Haute Horlogerie' and speciality watches of precious complications and expressive watchmaking masterworks.

i would argue that even though...

a watch has an ETA movement, or even a battery, it could still be considered as Haute Horlogerie.
stephen