• 6 Jun 2015, 10:26 p.m.

    From 1795 until the early 1900s, Maiden Lane was the center of the jewelry district in New York City. Located in Lower Manhattan, the jewelry industry started to move north by the 1920s, in part because the buildings on Maiden Lane had begun to become old. Today most of the original buildings aren't standing.

    In the early 1870s, when the first Jones watches were being made by IWC, the plan was to sell them in North America. To that end, IWC had a sales agent --located at 5 Maiden Lane. We know that based on the 1873 catalog, shown here:
    www.iwcforum.com/Vintage/1873Catalog.jpg

    The catalog itself is a mystery wrapped in an enigma. To my knowledge, no one has a copy, and only a reproduction of the cover although I'm sure it exists. Also, the catalog cover shows a watch movement that most knowledgeable people believe was made in western Switzerland, and not by IWC (this was discussed years ago in the forum). But the address clearly appears credible.

    Here's an image of what Maiden Lane looked like in the early 1880s,. about 10 years after the catalog:
    www.iwcforum.com/Vintage/MaidenLane1880s.jpg
    If you enlarge the image, you won't find the name IWC but you'll see the names of some of the merchants, plus in the left corner a horse cart of Leopold S Friedberger, "Importer of Fancy Goods and Watches". No relation known.

  • Master
    7 Jun 2015, 1:07 a.m.

    Amazing history here MF, thanks for sharing.

    Now, I simply need to have that movement from the cover page, in my collection. If I locate one, do I get naming rights (as in Cal.xxxx) or will I need to battle the good Herr Doktor Seyffer on that one?

  • 7 Jun 2015, 2:32 a.m.

    Mark, there's a story about the movement.

    When someone had s similar unsigned movement, he asked about it on this forum. The late Juergen King wrote him, saying he needed to take it apart for historical purposes. But since "it could be damaged", he asked that he be allowed to buy it. The fellow sold it to him, and he let the museum display it. But later it was concluded that the movement was not by IWC, notwithstanding the catalog, and it was taken out of the display case.

    You can read some of this by searching the archives, I guess. But it is not an IWC movement, and you wouldn't want it except as a curiousity.

  • Master
    7 Jun 2015, 5:25 a.m.

    As a watch enthusiast and as an urban designer/architect, I'm impressed with both the history of the watches and even more on the rendered illustration of Maiden Lane.

    It seems like the artist has taken the effort to capture many of the merchant's name, and the artwork could perhaps be co-sponsored by all the participating merchants. It depicts the higher class of customer and clean streets (which is not always the case in the days of horse carriage, horse manure was a major city management concern). All this is to maybe advertise Maiden Lane as a luxurious shopping destination.

    Thanks for sharing, Michael!

  • 7 Jun 2015, 10:48 a.m.

    some info I found on the forum regarding the caliber N, by Antonios Vassiliadis : "The quality N (showed at this catalogue) is a develloppement and construction of LOUIS AUDEMARS and PIGUET Frères. These two houses produced this caliber type. Everyone is right, saying this isn´t a movement from Schaffhausen. This design is a so called "Juergensen style", cause Jules Juergensen ordered these movements and sold them within his collection. You can prove this fact in the book of Harmut Zantke about Louis-Benjamin Audemars (ISBN 3-00-012191-9).
    AUDEMARS took these caliber type "Juergensen" in the years 1840-1870 also for his own collection.

    At my pages I called also this quality N as "Louis Audemars-Kaliber" (Juergensen style)."

  • Connoisseur
    7 Jun 2015, 12:21 p.m.

    This is a great thread, gentlemen. Thank you for the posts and illustrations.
    Looking at the "N" caliber you can see the name-Schaffhausen-but no "IWC". I am wondering if any other watch maker was making watches in Schaffhausen in or about 1873. I don't think it could be Moser as he had his movements made in French-speaking Switzerland at that time. Or could some other company, such as Jurgenson. or Audemars, have contracted with Jones to make calibers for it/them?

  • Connoisseur
    7 Jun 2015, 3:04 p.m.

    Great story, Michael!

    Illustrations are beautiful too!

    Thanks

    JK

  • 7 Jun 2015, 5:06 p.m.

    A few quick replies --

    Mike, to my knowledge no watches have ever been found with the Pattern N movement, and no Jurgensen style movements have ever been found with the word Schaffhausen on it. Simply stated, it's only an inexplicable illustration!

    Vincent --interesting hypothesis about the illustration. It is in the public domain but I have no idea where the original is. By the way, one retailer named (Barthman) is still there, on the corner of Broadway and Maiden Lane. I suspect all names are real.

  • Master
    7 Jun 2015, 6:16 p.m.

    Leopold S Friedberger: the genesis of a watch importing dynasty. No proof of antecedence required.

    An enjoyable and informative thread. Thank you.

  • Connoisseur
    7 Jun 2015, 7:52 p.m.

    Thanks, Michael.
    And by the way, William Barthman Jewelers sells IWC among other brands!

  • Master
    8 Jun 2015, 9:25 a.m.

    It is interesting that the catalogue of the Manhattan AD advertised the IWC movements in the cover, and not the case or even the complete watch.
    It appears to indicate that the XIX century American customer chose the movement first, and then the case and dial.
    If I am right, the American IWC customer of the XIX century may have been a more discerning crowd than today's customers, who seem to be more concerned with dials, members of this forum excluded.

  • Master
    8 Jun 2015, 10:58 a.m.

    Interesting article, Michael. I'm still learning! Love it.

    Nelson

  • Master
    8 Jun 2015, 1:27 p.m.

    +1!

  • Master
    8 Jun 2015, 5:43 p.m.

    That, IMHO, may have something to do with the fact that in that era Swiss companies needed to show that their movements are superior to ones made in America. Back then, IWC made most movements in-house and needed catalogs to keep track of them as well as for their spare parts.

    As a watchmaker, I find it important and beneficial for a watch manufacturer to have their own movements. And, I'm very pleased to see that IWC has come back to their historical roots by once again, in the past many years, manufacturing their own stable of mechanical watch movements.

    With consumers increasingly aware of what goes on inside a timepiece it is a tribute to the engineers at IWC who keep pushing the envelope in the quality and functions of the movements they introduce each year.

    Regards,
    Jack Freedman

  • 8 Jun 2015, 7:45 p.m.

    I would guess that the catalog was geared to retail jewelers and not end-users; that is, it was a wholesale catalog.

    That said, I had been told that encasing a selected movement at the jeweler was a typical 19th century practice.

  • Master
    9 Jun 2015, 1:05 a.m.

    The following advertisement shown in "IWC International Watch Co. Schaffhausen" by Tölke and King is from "The Watchmaker and Jeweller" of May 1873.

    www.gregsteer.net/IWC/I_Images/Mathez_T&K.jpg

    Tölke and King point out that a factory building of the type shown did not exist in Schaffhausen at that time.

    The "descriptive catalogue" referred to at the bottom of the above is probably the 1873 catalogue shown by MF. It would be interesting to see all of the catalogue, especially so given the above refers to "Our line of watches, of seventeen different pattens".

    I wonder of F.H. Mathez established contact with IWC/Jones two years earlier. Here we have an F.H. Mathez (not sure if it is the same one as above) bound from New York to Liverpool on 8 July 1871.

    www.gregsteer.net/IWC/I_Images/Mathez_8_July_1871.jpg

    Cheers from the cellar