Very interesting article on Hodinkee (link below).
www.hodinkee.com/blog/an-open-letter-to-iwc-from-john-mayer
I have to say, I agree with John with most of his comments. While I understand that IWC is in the business of selling watches, I sometimes feel they have too many models and special editions. I would like to see them scale their range down and focus on fewer pieces rather than creating many different SKUs.
Thoughts?
Funny, but one of the reasons that the CF3 reasonated so strongly with me was that I found it to be a return to form, of sorts, for IWC, with its matte dial, single date window, full magnetic shielding and minimally finished, yet highly technical movement. (Some might find the fauxtina hokey, but to my eyes it makes the watch just that more special, and fortunately it glows like Chernobyl.)
The above notwithstanding, IWC has certainly met with success after straying from the narrow path they previously followed, though perhaps at the expense of losing some of their formerly die-hard collectors. But while it's naive to expect the brand not the attempt to broaden their appeal with new models and partnerships, I think that there is little doubt that pendulum has swung a bit too far in recent times (the rainbow-hued Top Gun LEs spring to mind here).
Anyway, it will be interesting to see what, if any, reaction will come from official channels after such an influential and famous "friend of the brand" speaks their mind so publicly.
I'll put the popcorn in the microwave...
Regards,
Adam
Great read - thank you for the link. I have to say that there is quite a bit I agree with yet I feel most of what John takes issue with involves what IWC is doing more of rather than what it is doing less of. I understand what he is saying but found it interesting that it is more about IWC's ideology rather than a shift in function, performance or design. I believe that IWC still creates the watches he fell in love with.
On a side note - do you believe IWC's plethora of "SKUs" or, more specifically, "special editions" is the result of a strategy to gain more new or repeat customers?
It could not have been summarised better! He explained all the reasons thoroughly why I have also got cold-handed towards recently.
This open letter reflects my own thoughts very well.
IMHO, true FOBs are people who buy IWC watches with their own money because they like them, not people the company has to pay for being a "friend". As far as marketing goes, I think there are more imaginative ways of doing it than presenting celebrities.
My enthusiasm with CF3 is based on same reasons as Adam pointed out, and I think IWC should use CF3 as a source of inspiration when designing the sportier side of their collection. The dressier side should stay true to the design language of classic Portugiesers.
Well, from a video which I can vaguely remember, Georges Kern emphasized the importance of branding and how branding can command higher prices. I'm still hoping that IWC can continue to stay true to its values though looking the trend, it is going otherwise.
Excellent letter - could not express better what many of the long-time friends of IWC think.
Hope this letter reaches the desk of Georges Kern.
It puts down my thoughts exactly. And that's the reason why last couple of years i bought most IWC's second hand from the IWC 1998-2005 period of production.
Several vintage collectors have been expressing for some time similar, and more informed, opinions, in this forum - that IWC has been giving lip service to its heritage, but has actually been going in the opposite direction.
The sudden valuation of the CHF will have an impact on the Swiss watch industry, and IWC will not escape. This may be a time for reflection and correct trajectory. I hope so, but I am not holding my breath.
This topic has been placed several times, not only on this Forum.
And this new try will also change nothing.
Only economic requirements will change it ?!
Regards
HEBE
I agree, Hebe. It is not such letter that will change. Only economic circumstances will change IWC at it's "Core" LOL
Surely the voice of collectors and watch nerds is not going to change much at any watch company. The big drop in Richemont sales in the third quarter of 2014 might have an influence though. The demonstrations in Hong Kong and the focus on corruption in China has influenced sale .
Without knowing the individual sales figures for the watch brands in the group it’s hard to know if IWC sales especially were hit. That’s the kind of facts that will influence the management in Schaffhausen.
I think growing the brand is a great business move, but I find that the heart of these watches lie at the simplicity and function of the watches themselves.
For example, I fell in love with the Big Pilots Watch many years ago when I knew nothing about watches. I told myself that I would work my way to purchasing it, and finally last year I did. I am glad that before purchasing the watch, I never saw (or at least didn't know) that they had several boutique versions out there (i.e., the blue accents for Las Vegas, yellow, orange, green, etc.). I understand that many others will disagree with me, but I feel the various colorways take away from the function of a pilot's watch. Imagine trying to fly a plane with a black on blue dial...it simply would not work.
An interesting comparison would be to A Lange & Sohne or Patek. One of the reasons I love their watches is the purely simple and unchanging design, and their pursuit to maintain the "basic beauty" of their watches. (Full disclosure, I own neither of their watches).
I still believe IWC is one of the best watch brands out there and will continue to buy their watches. All that being said, I think the London BPP is an absolutely beautiful watch and would love to own one. A bit contradictory?
Insightful, and well written letter. You can see the song writing traits in the letter. I really like the subtlety of his metaphor of www.iwc.ch versus the ".com" evolution in the online experience....
My IWC buying habits have cooled in recent years, can't explain myself - still love IWC. Favorite brand. But, perhaps he is on to how we are not just buying the watch for the moment, and what the brand embodies at this moment, but what it will, or may represent in time to come. If that seems to be shifting away from the core values too fast - that will result in a shift into new types of customers.
There's also one cool slogan lost in the process
The John Mayer letter nails an actual condition not only for IWC but also for many other brands that in their needs to sell they have to approach new customers by incorporating aspirational themes to their lines.
I totally agree with John and also feel that the IWC DNA, history and heritage has to be recovered. Great historic lines like the Portofino, Pilot, Portuguese and Ingenieur have to be kept simple yet innovative and elegant.
Great brands like Porsche or VW are impecable with the consistency of their design through all their lines, year after year, management after management, owner after owner, embracing their history while always going further in innovation and technology.
Every VW no matter what price or segment is perfectly designed, elegant, refined, high quality and reliable.
As for innovation and new developments out of the historic-line, IWC had something big with the GST line, they should bring that back as well.
If IWC learns from the "open letter" they will still have a chance to be different and Innovative in a world where most brands are selling out their integrity towards flashiness and spectacle.
greetings and Viva IWC!
H.
John Mayer seems to have models from the current collection as well. I find the current development quite exciting. There are lots of interesting models in the current and recent lineups.
Of course not everybody will like everything. Me too.
Criticism is ok, but I don't share this.
So well written and so true for me... In many current models I dont't find the spirit I liked so much in some past models and for the one I like the prices have reached the sky...