John Mayer's letter says exactly what a lot of people, including many on this Forum, feel about the current state of IWC. I would probably agree with much of what he said at this time. Is it naive? Maybe. Frankly the letter was/is a waste of time if he thinks it is going to cause a change of direction-or even an internal debate-at the brand. Don't you think M. Kern has heard this all before? My thought is that John Mayer just wanted to "hear himself talk", in that self-important way that he tends to. I believe Rave summed it up beautifully; and right on point. As long as the brand doesn't completely forget its obstreperous old collectors (myself included) who want the past not to be forgotten, and design watches like quite a few of the Portugiesers, and the CF3, then let it do what it needs to do to keep relevant nowadays, and make money. There are enough models for all tastes; and there are other brands out there for those who need to scratch the itch but don't see what they want with IWC at any given moment.
A couple of months ago I had the tremendous privilege of spending a couple days in Schaffhausen as a guest of IWC. It was such an eye-opening experience seeing the incredible amount of time and dedication that goes into our watches. And I wasn’t one easily influenced by the obvious amount of effort that goes into pretty much any finely made Swiss watch (I’ve been to a few Swiss manufactures). But at Schaffhausen many wonderful and underlying things that myself and other collectors were able to see were simply inspiring. In particular a deep-rooted belief and respect for their heritage and engineering excellence - culminating in next week’s new launches - and surely to continue with wonderful new movements and offerings in years to come.
Being able to spend many years fostering talent, developing new movements and building state of the art new manufacturing facilities doesn’t come cheap - nor does the opening of boutiques where I can walk-in welcomed by the knowledgeable staff and watch-makers where I can nurture my passion.
I understand IWC must continue to broaden its appeal with new models and partnerships. But to think they have completely abandoned their identity or where they came from is mistaken. Like John, I am deeply passionate about IWC watches and there are several models that I love. I just think it’s a bit harder for him to personally see - but it’s certainly still all there.
I have read the open letter and the IWC response. I think that Mayer makes many good points and I thought the response was even better. My own view is that without the expansion that IWC has taken there probably would not be any brand for us to collect. I understand the purist viewpoint but time marches on and evidently so will the special editions. If you don't like 'em don't buy 'em. But I think there is something good here for everyone.
With all due respect to those offering differing opinions, is it really naive to express a wish that a company would be a little bit more consistent in its design and marketing to be better aligned with its own stated brand philosophy? (as found in Richemont's annual report)
Yes, we all know that Asia is an important market, and yes, we all know that IWC has grown profitably. Would a slightly differently tuned model range and a slightly differently focused marketing strategy have produced worse financial results? That we don't know, but there often is more than one way to skin a cat. Otherwise every watch brand should produce identical watches and market them in a similar manner.
"John Mayer, along with several people on this Forum, appear to want to see IWC as a fossilized extinct brand."
Interesting leap Ralph. Are these the only alternatives? Either IWC respects the heritage of the Ingenieur and the Pilot, or becomes a "fossilized extinct brand". While safeguarding, for the most part, its heritage on the Portuguese, da Vinci, Portofino, and Aquatimer lines, IWC has eviscerated the Pilot and the Ingenieur lines of their core characteristics in favor of meaningless cosmetic attributes. I refuse to accept that maintaining the Ingenieur and the Pilot lines honest, while evolving, would have resulted in IWC's extinction and consequent fossilization. I suspect I may have have given a wider meaning to your comment than you intended. I just took the opportunity to clarify my position and distance myself from radicalisms.
IWC appears to have listened to Michael, who was listening to the opinions of obstreperous (great word) old collectors, and produced the CF Pilot, which may turn out to be the best Pilot Chono IWC produced.
Interesting thread... I can't deny that I sold a more recent piece to acquire a predecessor I wanted for a long time for it's more pure looks, but, having said that, IWC's DNA does not get lost: you can see it from a mile's distance in the new Portuguesers this year but also in the Pilot's, Ingenieurs etc.
Let's also be honest, we here on this forum are not typical customers who probably don't even care about logo-types on the dial...
Same goes for the marketing & branding strategy: that it was successful is a fact and it was copied by many many other watch brands. The 'Friends of the Brands' celebrity stuff maybe does not appeal to a lot of collectors, but let's remember Richemont/IWC is in the luxury industrywhich is all about fashion! That's how they 'load' brands and attract new customers.
So whether you like the things 'surrounding' the brand nowadays or not, is a matter of personal taste or opinion again (which we're all entitled to).
In reference to how 'pure' other high-end brands remained: collectors' reactions on a Patek forum when PP launched their 175th anniversary special editions (did I say PP and special editions?) weren't overwhelming either.... but they did all sell out in a day (at incredible price points...).
You can't please them all and you can't like all of it, but for me the DNA and heritage won't go away. Obviously I would also encourage IWC to put more emphasis on it, but it makes no sense to only look back or focus on the negative aspects.
Maybe an interesting observation is a that a lot of the 'pure' design we like so much now, did not sell at all in the 70's-80's-90's (and that also goes for a lot of vintage cars, etc.).
So for me "the glass is more than half-full" and I see a lot of encouraging design!
Several true gentlemen agree on this, and I agree 98% To use the Porsche analogy - I believe that a company such as Porsche was 100% when they decided to produce other cars than the 911. As Raplh says, if they hadn't they would have been gone by now. And those other cars are extremely good, even if they look and behave very differently than the 911. The result is that Porsche is now a very healthy company and those other cars have enabled them to produce even better and more beautiful 911s.
So IWC, please continue to evolve and progress, give us new watches rooted in your heritage, give us new watches created from your imagination - give us what we want, but also do as Apple and give us what we didn't know we wanted.
After reading the article, I wondered for a while why Mr. Mayer wrote it, and why now. He may be concerned that he might not like the present or future watches of IWC because they don't breathe the same atmosphere as that of, say, 15 years ago. OK, that is his problem, who cares? He may be concerned that not only he, but a whole group of IWC-lovers may lose the love for IWC because of the model policy of the last few years. This also is personal, but if the group will not buy IWC watches anymore that they would have bought with a different model policy, and if the group is substantial in size, this may be a concern for IWC. He may be concerned about the future of IWC, that might fare better when staying closer to the past, than it might fare with the current model policy: how nice of Mr. Mayer, but at least when looking at the present IWC is doing well enough.
Watches are emotion, and as they go hand in hand with a personal expenditure of a decent amount of money, they are personal emotion, maybe steered by a sense of belonging to a group. I look at watches at an individual level, I like them or not: that they are part of the collection of IWC, or Blancpain, is an important part of it. But in the end it is the watch, and not the rest, that I buy. Far more damaging to the image of the brand than the model policy, or the celebreties, are problems with the quality of the watch. Not only the product itself but also the quality of the after sales service. Reading the stories here about appalling repair issues kills my appetite to buy in a significant way. Luckily my personal experience in this respect was good until now.
I happen to like what IWC is offering the last few years, leading to four acquisitions in the last five years. To me, the relation to the past didn't play any significant role, I just liked the watches for what they were, and are. And I don't care at all whether a member of the Rolling Stones has the same watch, and wears it every day.
Paul, 100% agree. This is the main point. Anything else is not the real issue for me too. The community and friendship aspect here is very nice too, of course. But this evolved out of the love for the individual products.
I tried to post on Hodinkee - but the blog closed. Seemed like I was in the time moment when I Submitted / to be moderated. Anyway this is what I wrote.
Mr Mayer - it's time to broaden your view. The IWC Brand has evolved and as such answers the demand of so many customers. Being stuck in the past will have no value to anyone. Respecting the past and building upon it is exactly what IWC have done. Since IWC have evolved, not only will they survive, they will flourish. Accept the invitation of IWC to come to SIHH and become involved and more importantly informed. Here you can link the past current and future. Become involved in the collectors forum. Here you can dialogue with exciting dynamics.
More details from how I see things.
This response letter is a direct example of how much IWC have stayed close to their heritage in how they initiated and revolutionized interactions with collectors (via the collectors forum) and remarkably maintained that dialogue. It's a pity that John doesn't seem to be an active participant at the IWC forum where such dialogue could have been possible, easily embraced and he would have been able to get a myriad of views and perspectives on his views over. Some of which many people can reflect and discuss upon openly and we have two great moderators who can drive such discussion. IWC invested and created the forum platform for such dialogue and its a pity that John didn't use it. IWC employees are members of the forum and would become exposed to the range of thoughts anyway.
Such a letter from John Mayer comes at an unusual time. What was his motivation for this timing just before the SIHH - the most important annual event in the calendar of 16 Watch brands. I would guess that this is an unwelcome - poorly timed distraction for IWC executives who have the next step in the future of their brand to focus on during these times and not focus on one individuals perspective.
A catch-22 scenario could evolve. Ignore the comments and you're interpreted as you don't care (or care enough) or respond to the comments and you are interpreted as caring too much.
I am very impressed on the response of IWC. They took the time to respond and in doing so my personal emotion to the brand has become enhanced. Perhaps John your letter was built through motivation to catalyze a dialogue that will result in many many people reacting in such a way that they enhance they affinity to the brand - by reflecting on the positives - the things they have done and brought us and not the things they didn't bring us - by resting in a state of hibernation. They have innovated and this is what is expected.
From owner to collector: Around 30 years ago my story with IWC began. My grandfather had an IWC watch and due to some financial issues I wasn't able to inherit it. It was a Mark XI. Move forward in time to around 12 years ago I had now completed my education, earning a salary and living in Switzerland. I wanted a Mark XI but knew that one small watch wouldn't be enough. But I didn't know enough about the watch industry so took my time to read, study and learn about many brands. After some thought (5 years) I then took the decision IWC was for me - and now my point - my initial emotional rationale is very close to that John describes. At that time my interest in watches was fully private. Just me and my girlfriend were aware. And then something special happened. I joined the IWC collectors forum and realized that there are hundreds of like minded individuals around the globe. A family feel debating group then allowed one to learn more - on a daily basis.
I make this point because many of the statements about DNA of organizations albeit important is not the best metaphor. The "genetic code" metaphor of an luxury watch based organization is far more diverse than an organism - but still people write about "being non-true to ones DNA". I urge us to take the time to write and explain what that means rather than using metaphors would be my suggestion. We can't hide behind DNA as an excuse.
18 years ago I met my girlfriend. Her DNA hasn't changed to any medically significant level but her personality has evolved as we experience new things in life and enjoy the journey (very short time in history we have shared) together. IWC as a brand have evolved accordingly hand in hand with how the world has changed and evolved. New markets old markets and future markets. Future trends, old trends and evolving trends have enjoyed a wonderful ballet that I don't understand and that's why I am a scientist and not working in the luxury watch industry.
I am a collector of only IWC watches and consider myself well informed of the history and development of IWC (I think I read everything available) but more importantly have retained a lot of the information and knowledge. I am well informed on contemporary watches and I would separate my evolving collection into three equal parts. The vintage part. The contemporary part and the part I am really looking forward to - the future part. The next days are exciting times as we learn more about the next step in IWC enriching future.
I obviously have an issue with the less-informed Mayer hypotheses that could potentially lead to IWC not evolving and instead risk becoming too focused and therefore fail to survive in the luxury segment. IWC are not a niche brand so this cannot happen. To go backwards is not feasible. The contribution that IWC has made to increasing the range of products available to first time buyers all the way to the most wealthy collectors allows an opportunity for a broad group of the population to participate. Now that's impressive. Mayer likes the GST and Big Pilot and more. The diverse population around the globe love the Portuguese, Portofino, Da Vinci and Aquatimers - and special limited edition pieces. So let them have peace to create their own story and follow their own path that may be very different to yours or mine.
This success allows IWC to plan ahead and since I have the privilege to know a few IWC employees and have been invited to pre launch events the future looks very exciting indeed. The brand is evolving to allow access to a wide range of watch buyers. One of things that keeps me intrigued is their social and corporate responsibility aspects. This charitable contributions are not only noble but involve many additional costs and efforts but IWC fully devote themselves to these efforts nevertheless. I enjoy being a fan of the IWC brand with such engaging activities. If IWC didn't evolve - well this wouldn't be part of what they do.
At the end of the day being able to tell the time is possible through a number of objects available to us all. We don't buy luxury watches so we can ONLY read the time. It is much more. Your story John is a lovely one and everyone has their own story too. I often sit in a plane, restaurant, tram etc and a complete stranger will comment on my watch and start up a conversation. These are warm moments. People love to share their emotions. And we need to continue to do so.
Get yourself more informed John and myself and other collectors would warmly welcome you into our dialogue. Hope that you accept the kind option to visit SIHH - dialogue is ,uci easier and constructive in person.
I find the Aquatimer line a very good example of how a line can evolve from one generation to the next. All models share a common and distinctive style that is identifiable with IWC. It shows that you can innovate and develop while maintaining a credible positioning and coherence.
The current Ingenieur line on the other hand is the one I find suffering the most from lack of a clear theme and credible position. It's difficult to see what IWC wants to transmit with the line as a whole. That said my current favorite IWC is the 3239. :-)
Poor show of Hodinkee, getting stage fright and shutting down the blog. Especially, since some of us had posted responses, and they (like Andrew and mine), were not published.
Here is what I wrote.
[i]John, I sincerely hope you will accept the invitation and join myself and other IWC Collectors lucky enough to have been honored by IWC with an invitation to attend SIHH next week. Join us, not as John Mayer the Celeb, but simply as a fellow collector (private individual) and get to understand first hand, that while some might or might not agree with some of the points you raise, all have something else to add.
I've been collecting watches from before you were born, and whilst I today primary collect IWC, I've had a passion for quiet at few brands, many of which (like ENICAR) sadly are no longer around today. Why? Simply because, as others have written here, they did not adapt.
Now here's the thing. I am one of a few that collect since inception both vintage and contemporary IWC timepieces. I've been around, and collecting IWC in the period that you write about, and guess what? I too have not appreciated / liked every timepiece that IWC have manufactured over that period - BUT get this, I have found that I seem to have added at least one if not more new contemporary IWC watches to my collection in each of the years during the time period you address. Whilst not a purist, I do tend to like the more classic pieces with a tendency to favor those that carry the heritage genes. And yes Sir, you guessed it right! Despite what you wrote, IWC Product Management have clearly year on year, managed to build watches I liked and bought - yet at the same time manufactured watches in just enough styles and variety to have satisfied the overall marketplace, drive sales to record heights and in so doing keep the shareholders happy! After all from Mr. Kern downwards, all those employees at IWC in Schaffhausen, are tasked with a common goal - to run a successful business, and keep building watches that many people like and buy.
....and to that end, they are doing a pretty good job! John, I sincerely hope you will accept the invitation and join myself and other IWC Collectors lucky enough to have been honored by IWC with an invitation to attend SIHH next week. Join us, not as John Mayer the Celeb, but simply as a fellow collector (private individual) and get to understand first hand, that while some might or might not agree with some of the points you raise, all have something else to add.
I've been collecting watches from before you were born, and whilst I today primary collect IWC, I've had a passion for quiet at few brands, many of which (like ENICAR) sadly are no longer around today. Why? Simply because, as others have written here, they did not adapt.
Now here's the thing. I am one of a few that collect since inception both vintage and contemporary IWC timepieces. I've been around, and collecting IWC in the period that you write about, and guess what? I too have not appreciated / liked every timepiece that IWC have manufactured over that period - BUT get this, I have found that I seem to have added at least one if not more new contemporary IWC watches to my collection in each of the years during the time period you address. Whilst not a purist, I do tend to like the more classic pieces with a tendency to favor those that carry the heritage genes. And yes Sir, you guessed it right! Despite what you wrote, IWC Product Management have clearly year on year, managed to build watches I liked and bought - yet at the same time manufactured watches in just enough styles and variety to have satisfied the overall marketplace, drive sales to record heights and in so doing keep the shareholders happy! After all from Mr. Kern downwards, all those employees at IWC in Schaffhausen, are tasked with a common goal - to run a successful business, and keep building watches that many people like and buy.
....and to that end, they are doing a pretty good job! [/i]