I had an interesting discussion with Adrianus van der Meijden concerning a number of IWC "Seeland" watches. IWC "Seeland" watches were made during the period when IWC was under the control of of Frederic Frank Seeland, a US citizen who was appointed to manage the IWC factory in October 1876, after the first company, founded by F.A. Jones, had gone bankrupt. Dr. R. Grieshaber was president, and Johann Rauschenbach was managing director. Initially all seemed to go well under Seeland's management and he was left alone to run the business. Seeland introduced watch calibres that were cheaper to make than the Jones calibres. Profits apparently soared, and the workforce increased. But Seeland was faking the profits by overstating the value of stock on hand. This came to light during the summer of 1879 when Seeland with his family suddenly and secretly left Schaffenhausen for America just before the stock take was due. A stock take by Rauschenbach and the factory foreman revealed that the stock on hand was worth a lot less than Seeland had stated the previous year, and the company had actually been losing money and was faced with a substantial debt. The IWC company went into bankruptcy for a second time, and Seeland was sentenced in his absence to three weeks in prison.
Most of the IWC Seeland watches were sold in the UK, and their cases have UK hallmarks. This has lead to speculation that UK made cases were sent to Switzerland to be used in these watches. But this would not have made financial sense; UK wages were higher than Swiss wages at the time, and UK made cases would have been more expensive than Swiss made cases. As I noted above, Seeland was trying to cut costs and produce watches that were cheaper to make than those of F.A. Jones; it would not have made economic sense to import expensive UK made cases. So how did the Seeland watches get UK hallmarks?
From the time of the reign of Edward I in 1300, all gold and silver items made in the UK have been tested (assayed) and marked to show that the purity of the gold or silver met required standards. This was first done at the hall of the Goldsmiths Guild in London, hence the term "hallmarked". However, until 1842, foreign items were not required to be so marked, but were subject to high import duties which protected the UK makers. In 1842 a proposal to reduce the duty on imported items lead to protests that cheaper foreign items of lower purity would undermine UK trade, so a statute was passed requiring that imported items be assyed and marked in the same was as UK made items. It was actually made law that foreign items would have UK hallmarks that were indistinguishable from those of UK made items!
Swiss watch makers were not slow to see the opportunities that this presented and sent unpolished watch cases to the UK to be hallmarked, then returned to Switzerland to be finished and made into complete watches. These watches were then often sold as English made watches, because at the time English watches were very well regarded and commanded high prices. Naturally the English watchmakers objected to this and so a law was passed in 1867 that all foreign made gold and silver items should be marked with an "F" in addition to the normal UK hallmarks.
The IWC Seeland watches in Adrianus van der Meijden's collection, such as the one pictured here, have full UK hallmarks for sterling silver, but do not have the "F" mark. IWC factory records show that the movements were put into the cases at the IWC factory in Schaffenhausen.
IWC Seeland with the sponsor's mark of Antoine Castelberg
Image © Adrianus van der Meijden
When I examined the hallmarks in the cases of five of Adrian's IWC Seeland watches, this is what I found:
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[li]Two of the cases have Chester Assay Office hallmarks with date letter "o" for the hallmarking year 1877/1878 and "r" for the hallmarking year 1880-1881 (hallmarking years do not correspond to calendar years but start when a new Warden of the assay office was elected). The sponsor's mark is "AC" incised within an oval. This mark was registered at the Chester Assay Office on 17 October 1877 and was the mark of Antoine Castelberg of 58 Holborn Viaduct, London, a watch dealer and importer from La Chaux-de-Fonds. Castelberg had several London addresses, his sponsor's mark was first registered with the London Assay Office on 25 August 1875 with the address 90 Newgate Street London. On 2 August 1876 he moved to 58 Holborn Viaduct. You can see the case back of one of these watches in the picture. The incised mark registered to Castleberg is unusual because UK makers usually used cameo (relief) marks like the other assay office marks.[/li]
[li]Two of the cases have Chester Assay Office hallmarks, both with the date letter "p" for the hallmarking year 1878/1879. The sponsor's mark is "FP" incised within an oval shield very similar to Antoine Castelberg's mark. This was the mark of Fritz Petitpierre, 58 Holborn Viaduct, London. This mark was registered at the Chester Assay Office on 18 June 1878. Petitpierre was also a watch dealer and importer from Chaux-de-Fonds, and a business partner of Castelberg's, sharing the same London address.[/li]
[li]One case has Birmingham Assay Office hallmarks with the date letter "i" for the hallmarking year 1883/1884. The sponsor's mark is FM in a rectangular shield. This is probably the mark of Frank Moss, 48 Frederick Street, Birmingham. Frank Moss was a partner in the firm of J. Blanckensee & Co., watch manufacturers and importers.[/li]
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So four of the five watches had the sponsor's marks of watch dealers and importers, and not the maker's marks of English watch case makers, and the fifth has the sponsor's mark of a watch importer who also was not a watch case maker. This shows that these cases were not made in the UK, and it is obvious that they were imported from Switzerland by Castelberg, Petitpierre and Moss, and sent by them for assay before being returned to Switzerland to be assembled into watches in the IWC factory.
The question remains as to why these cases did not carry the "F" for "Foreign" as required by the 1867 British Act of Parliament? I asked The Goldsmiths' Company about this, and I learned that there was considerable difficulty in enforcing the 1867 act, to the extent that hardly any items of silver are known to bear the "F" mark until the early 1880s. The reason for this is because, as I noted above, there was no provision made to ensure that the law was complied with, and UK agents of Swiss manufacturers continued submitting Swiss made cases for assay without declaring that they were made abroad. The assay offices were not capable of checking this and so the cases were hallmarked as if they were British made, without the foreign "F" mark. This situation continued until 1887 when a new act required a statutory declaration before an officer of an assay office, a Justice of the Peace or a Commissioner for oaths of the country of origin for all watch cases submitted for assay, that all imported watch cases be marked "Foreign" and not just with an "F", and that the usual mark of the assay office and the lion passant be replaced with different marks that could not be mistaken for UK hallmarks.
I understand from Adrian that Seeland designed his new cheaper calibres to look like existing British and American models. These watches with a full set of British hallmarks could then be passed off as being British made and thereby command a higher price. At the time, British made watches were regarded as the best available. This was certainly the sort of thing that Seeland would have been capable of doing - perhaps this was why he valued his IWC stock above its market value, he thought the watches could be sold as British made and thereby command a higher price?
Funnily enough, the Seeland Swiss watches are actually unusual in having UK hallmarks at all. Although the clear intention of the UK law since 1842 was that imported watches should be hallmarked, the UK Customs officials misinterpreted the law and thought that watches that were imported complete, that is rather than an empty case, were exempt from hallmarking. This wasn't discovered until 1905, and the law wasn't changed until 1907, so the vast majority of Swiss watches imported into the UK before July 1907 don't have UK hallmarks. You can read more about this on the "Cases and hallmarks" page of my web site.
Regards - David